A Break at the Beach in GOA

The beach in GOA.... ahhhhhh! A nice break after Creepy Kochi!

Amanda, Jez, and I took a night train (2 tier AC sleeper), to GOA the evening after the shmuck solicited me. The gentle rocking of the overnight journey gave me a good night's sleep, and I was eager for new surroundings. We arrived in the afternoon, with Jez and Amanda ready for a bungalow on the beach... I, personally, didn't much care where we stayed, as long as it was clean without hasslesome staff. I volunteered to watch over our heavy backpacks while Jez and Amanda searched for our new homes. It was hot, and sticky... and the sound of crashing waves beckoned me to join them... instead I waited patiently for the room hunt to end. A young boy (probably 14) looked at our bags and asked me if I was looking for a room... I nonchalantly dismissed his offer, but took a card for good measure. Jez returned about an hour later, somewhat discouraged by the hunt... so I passed him the card. He went and took a look... and, Eureka!!! we found our room.

The rooms were beautiful, bright yellow, with extremely clean bathrooms, hot water in the shower (a commodity), and balconies overlooking village life in Palolem... all for a good price. It was heaven! We all got settled, and made our way to the beach for some down time.

The road to the beach was lined with vendor stalls, and touts, touts, touts. Everyone demanding our attention, time, and energy to make purchases. With my practiced guard up, but with a warm and open smile, I declined every invitation, sometimes making an exception to answer their infamous opening line, "What is your good name?" with a short and direct, "Sita." Although one might think such a short, one-syllable name as Sita, would be the shortest possible answer stopping subsequent interrogation, it seemed to do the opposite.

"Ahhhh! Indian name! Very good, beautiful name," they'd exclaim in reply... continuing with a jest, "Where is Ram?"

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In Hinduism, Sita is the wife of Ram (or God). In the Ramayana (Hindu legend), the story (condensed version, from Wikipedia) goes...: Sita was kidnapped from Lord Rama by Ravana. When Sita is kidnapped by Ravana, both Sita and Rama undergo great personal hardships during their separation. Sita protects her chastity assiduously, and survives over a year in captivity on the strength of her love and attention to religious values and duty. She is completely unfettered in her resolve despite Ravana's courting, cajoling and threats. Meanwhile Rama, not knowing who had kidnapped Sita or where was she taken, often succumbs to despair and tears, denouncing himself for failing to defend her and agonizing over her safety and pain. Sita knows that it is in Rama's destiny to fight to rescue her (she refuses to be rescued thus by Hanuman (the monkey god), who discovers her), but is deeply anxious for his safety and fearful of Ravana's power.

After Rama slays Ravana and wins the war, Sita wants to come before him in the state which over a year's imprisonment had reduced her to, Rama arranges for Sita to be bathed and given beautiful garments before they are re-united. But even as Sita comes before him in great excitement and happiness, Rama does not look at her, staring fixedly at the ground. He tells her that he had fought the war only to avenge the dishonour that Ravana had inflicted on Rama, and now Sita was free to go where she pleased. At this sudden turn of events, all the vanaras, rakshasas, Sugriva, Hanuman and Lakshmana are deeply shocked.

Sita begs Lakshmana to build her a pyre upon which she could end her life, as she could not live without Rama. At the great shock and sorrow of the watchers, Sita walks into the flames. But to their greater shock and wonder, she is completely unharmed. Instead, she glows radiantly from the centre of the pyre. Immediately Rama runs to Sita and embraces her. He had never doubted her purity for a second, but, as he explains to a dazzled Sita, the people of the world would not have accepted or honoured her as a queen or a woman if she had not passed this Agni pariksha before the eyes of millions, where Agni would destroy the impure and sinful, but not touch the pure and innocent.

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So... all the vendors were wondering where my Ram was... and I answered the infamous Indian reply, "Coming," curbing further questioning and jests, while at the same time, claiming that am indeed not alone. After a day or so, I had earned the love and respect of all of the street vendors, simply by sharing my "Indian" name, Sita. I felt much like Norm from the show, Cheers, as I walked down the streets in Palolem, with everyone cheering a joyful hello to Sita!

GOA was similar to any touristy beach retreat, complete with safe, delicious foods, bars, warm ocean waters, shops, and cows... well, I suppose cows don't normally fit the touristy beach description... but here in India, it does. Cows are sunbathing right alongside the tourists, and even entering the same pubs and restaurants.

GOA is famous for its pary beaches... but surprisingly we found it to be quiet and rather peaceful, with a mellow night life. The police are really trying to quited the party craze, so it seems the night ends around midnight. We did, however, discover a "Silent Noise" party where you can rent headphones to dance in the open air to the electronic beats... we didnt' go tho.

On my last night in Palolem, I decided to order some (free) room service from the restaurant where I learned about the hotel. Fried banana, with vanilla ice cream, and a dab of chocolate. To my surprise the young boy who handed me the Hotel's card made the delivery. He noticed I was packing, and began a short conversation about my stay, and where I was off to. As the converstion closed, I handed him a tip. His eyes widened in appreciation, and he told me I was very nice.... he stuck out his hand for me to shake, but then he pulled me into an incredibly short, but genuine hug. Something happened to me in that brief, but sweet gesture... maybe a healing from Creepy Kochi... or some kind of heart-warming opening of some sort. He left my room, and in overwhelming happiness, I cried. That small embrace from the 14 yr. old, seemed to be some kind of gateway to India... like I finally dropped into the heart of India!

Jez and Amanda decided to stay in GOA for a bit longer, moving on up to Agonda beach (a quieter beach still). I, was Hampi bound! Stories from Hampi coming soon!