Lakshmi Puja: A Blessing from an Elephant!

I arrived in Hampi in the late afternoon, about an hour or so before sun down. It was a long train ride during the day, so I was able to take in the incredible landscapes: terraced fields of rice paddies, cows, water buffalo, women in brightly colored saris crouching amongst wheat, rice, and corn, oxen pulling carts with indian men in tow, mountains, desert... you name it. The ride was beautiful.

Hampi is an ancient temple town built within tumbling granite boulders. It has the similar mystical energy of Joshua Tree, but with the added holiness of ancient ruins and temples in honor of Hindu Gods and Goddesses! It truly is a magical place! I knew the moment I arrived that my plan to stay for only 3 days was a joke... and that I would at least be there for a week!

As per advice from friends along the way, I made my way to the river to catch a boat to stay on the "other side." A much more shanti (peaceful) place to be outside the touristy hustle and bustle on the mainland. I found myself a cute little guest house at Gautami Resorts for the 150 Rs./night, and settled in. The boat stops at 6:30pm so I was stuck on my side of the river for the night. I took a stroll to the Laughing Buddha... a restaurant that became my residential restaurant for the week. I ordered a much needed pizza, and settled in to watch their movie pick for the night, Slumdog Millionaire. (I highly recommend this flick if you've not seen it already... I think it's already won like 8 Oscars or something).

I had a very leisurely morning, and slowly made my way out of the resort for the day. I wanted to check out the main temple in Hampi. At 2pm it opened for the afternoon, and I made my way inside... 5 Rs. to enter, and 50 Rs. to take pictures. I, of course, wanted to capture the experience digitally, so I coughed up the 55 Rs. ($1.02) and made my way into the temple.

I made a bee-line for Lakshmi (the residential temple elephant). I arrived with a bunch of school children... so I waited in the back as the children received their pujas (blessings) from the massive mammal. Shyly the children stepped forward to place a 5 Rs. coin in Lakshmi's long, articulate trunk. Eyes wide with surprise they witnessed Lakshmi handing their lucky coin to the handler, then ducked as she swung her arm-like appendige to tap them on the head in her blessing. I was in awe. The children giggled, and laughed... sometimes even screached in excitement with every blessing, and I did as well. After the children were hearded to the next attraction, I stepped forward for my turn. A man, who I presumed was also working with Lakshmi, asked me if I'd like him to take a picture of my puja... I thought it was a no-brainer... and handed him my camera... (see my profile picture). In absolute amazement, and surprise, I received my blessing!

I couldn't seem to pry myself from Lakshmi's stable, as I stepped aside to witness other visitor's pujas. The "camera man" continued to engage me in conversation, filling me in on details about Lakshmi's life in the temple. He informed me that every morning and every evening, she received her baths in the river, near the ghats (bleacher-like steps). I made a mental note that I would get up early to attend the morning ritual the next day. I made a feeble request to see if it would be possible to ride Lakshmi, and surprisingly, received an unexpected yes! What?! I couldn't believe it! He told me to wait a bit... and he whispered something to the other handler. Lakshmi gave a few more pujas, then they walked her over to the open arena.

I climbed up a few stairs, and the camera man offered me his hands for a boost onto the huge elephant. I scooted myself right up onto Lakshmi's neck, and held onto the chain wrapped around her. I was nervous, and excited, and in comeplete disbelief! I was riding an elephant... bare-back, no less! Laksmi lumbered forward into a circle, while "camera man" clicked away. I was nervous, and I think Lakshmi could tell, because she flipped her huge ears back to pin my legs securely against her face. Her skin was leathery, with long, wiry hairs poking through my cotton pants. It was obvious that in any instance of disagreement, Lakshmi would surely win... I was humbled!

Camera man seized his opportunity of my bliss to invite himself to guide me through the rest of the temple, filling me in on history, lore, and of course, more dates than one could ever retain in a 45 minute tour. We're talking ancient sculptures of Gods and Goddesses, paintings, and architechture for thousands of years... maintained and still functioning for current-day rights and rituals!

A preist was offering puja at one of the temples, and I watched as Indian pilgrims received his blessing. He beckoned to me to come forward... and camera man offered to take my camera. The preist gave me his blessing, marking my 3rd-eye with a powdery, bright red pigment. He handed me prasad (an offering of sweets), and holy water, and my entire spirit lifted. Ha! And I thought Lakshmi's puja was next level! Something unexplainable happened to me in that blessing... and I was overwhelmed with joy... and a sweet vulnerability that blasted my heart chakra open in complete humility.

Camera man hustled me along for the rest of the tour, then capped it all off with his ultimate request.

"Madam, please consider hosting me in your country by providing me with a good job, room and board for one entire year. I promise that once I make money, I will give to you. Please, please consider this."

My mind and heart were overwhelmed, and I could not quite take in his request with any seriousness. I told him I would consider his offer as I handed him his commission for the tour, and excused myself to take in the afternoon's events. I scurried up a granite hill to some ruins, trying to avoid the men curious of my name and country along the way. I found some shade under an old granite structure, and a small, young chai walla (about 13) made his way over. My guard was up. I just wanted some peace and quite in this sacred site while I took in the view and the vulnerability that the afternoon's blessings had bestowed upon me.

"Chai?" asked the bright eyed boy?
"No, thank you," I declined.
He simply smiled from ear to ear, and continued... "Which country?"
"USA," I couldn't resist his smile.
"Oh! Very good country," he awed.
His name was Vikram, Vikas for short. He was so sweet... and not just interested in selling his chai. We chatted for some time, and I told him about my ride on Lakshmi the elephant. He shared my enthusiasm and excitement, and we laughed and laughed as I showed him the pictures.

"My taking?" He motioned for the camera. He was asking me if he could take a picture of me. I handed him the camera... and he snapped away with an artistic eye, capturing the shape of our shadows, and the views around us. He pointed out some of the temples I should visit during my stay, and told me about a waterfall upriver. He offered to take me the next day, so we made a plan to meet after Lakshmi's morning bath in the river around 9AM. He told me that he needed to sell his chai to everyone who came up to the ruins for sunset... I offered to be his first customer (a good luck gesture), and bought a cup of chai afterall. I reconfirmed our plan for the morning and walked towards the river to get back to the other side before the boat stopped for the night. I was ecstatic! I rode an elephant, and made my first friend in Hampi!
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The next morning, I got a slow start, and sat on the ghats to watch Lakshmi get her bath. She laid patiently on her side in the water as her handlers scrubbed her vigorously with wire brushes and soap. Some women in colorful saris and men wrapped in their lunghis (white square fabrics, wrapped around like a skirt) bathed right alongside the elephant, while offering their morning prayers and pujas to the river. Others slapped their dirty clothing articles against the river rocks with great force to whack the dirt right out of them. For the Indians this was a typical morning along the ghats. For me and a handful of other tourists, it was a colorful spectacle of entertainment.

I watched until Lakshi's bath was finished, and she climbed the stairs towards the temple. Peacefully, I headed for the Mango Tree restaurant to meet Vikas for a Lassi (yogurt smoothy) before our day's adventure to the water fall. He came running up behind me on the path to the restaurant. We strolled through the banana plantations excited for our day. He informed me that we would first stop at his house for breakfast. It was an open invitation to the real India!

I insisted that we first go into town and rent bicycles for our trip. I also picked up some fruit as a gift for his family (an expensive commodity on Indian salaries). On our bikes with fruit-filled baskets we set out towards his house on the cobble-stone streets... quite a bumpy ride! The homes of the villagers were very modest compared to the elaborate guest houses tourism provides. Goats, dogs, and cows parted before us as we rode up to his house. All of the neighbors stared with shy smiles as the white American girl walked up to Vikas' house. His mother met us at the door, where I removed my sandals to step inside. She greeted me with a wide grin, and motioned for me to sit on the straw mat on the floor.

Immediately, Vikas' 14-year old sister came in with a cup of water for me, and her mother shouted something in Kanada (the local language) and she scurried away back into the kitchen. Vikas laughed when I placed my mouth on the cup to drink the water... improper Indian form... and he took his own glass to show me how drink Indian Style, without touching the mouth to the cup. I tried the technique, and water splashed all down the front of my shirt, and everyone laughed a hearty laugh.

Vikram's sister brought in 2 plates of chapathi (unleavened bread), rice, and dahl (fried lentils). She handed one to me and one to Vikas, and I waited in observation for permission to eat. Vikas insisted that his mother eat first... even though she did not want to eat at all. Insistantly he waited patiently, and I did the same. In defeat, his mother reached over with her right hand, grabbed a small handful of food from his plate and popped it into her mouth. Vikram dove into his plate, and I did the same! The food was delicious with lots of spice! Vikram's sister came back in with a cup of chai, and offered me more to eat... but I was already full.

We finished our meal, and Vikram's mom asked us about our plans to the waterfall... eyeing Vikas warily, she demanded that we not swim. We gave her our word, and agreed to come back in time for lunch at 2pm.

It turned out that the waterfall was just a rapid in the river... which I didn't end up seeing anyway. It was incredibly hot out, and after watching some other westerners in the refreshing river, Vikas and I decided to swim. It was wonderful! And then... the Indian men were quickly gathering around our swimming hold to catch a glimpse of the American flesh. Fortunately, one of the men from the triad of westerners got in right after me, claiming to be my husband. It's always so amazing to me how easy it is to get married here in India! ;)

(I'll post what I have now... because I don't know when next I'll have a moment to continue the story.... stay tuned for continued adventures in Hampi!)....