Much like a new chickling ready to spread her wings and fly, I left Amma's Embrace to explore India on my own. Leaving the Ashram, I took the ferry 4 hours north to the coastal town of Alleppey, an anchor point for tourists interested in the backwaters. Passing through small villages, one gets an intimate glimpse of everyday life as women beat their laundery on the stones lining the riverbeds and canals, men manage their fishing nets for sustanence, and children splash and scream, "One pen! One pen, please!" begging for a souvenir from the weterners floating by. While it was a beautiful journey full of color from the flapping saris on the laundery lines, and the vibrant feathers of the water fowl, I felt a bit embarrassed when everytime we passed residents of the villages, most of my fellow ferry crew click, click, clicked away on their telescope lens cameras without permission from their targeted villagers. Some of villagers would return sheepish grins, while others would scurry into their houses to avoid being captured on film. I'll admit, I took a few shots myself... but tried to use discretion, and shoot only the shots of those who seemed to enjoy the attention.
I arrived at Alleppy at dusk, just as the streetlights began to flicker into their shine. I made a beeline for my first choice hotel suggested in my guidebook, avoiding the mob of salesman recruiting customers for their private residence guesthouses. Unfortunately my first choice was booked... but they recommended their friends at the Springs Inn, another Lonely Planet recommendation. I asked them to call to confirm a room for me, and they arranged for me to be picked up by a 22 yr. old agent on his motor bike. He strapped my huge backpack to the bike, then motioned for me to get on. I did, despite my personal vow that I would not even consider riding a motorbike in India!
The room was "clean" by Indian standards with a King sized bed (2 single beds pushed together). A mosquito net was neatly hung, and tucked behind the bedpost. "It's beautiful!" I exclaimed, relieved to have my first personal space since... well (having been couch/floor surfing since September)... it's actually been months!
The young man, Muthos (about 22), asked me to come and register at the front desk after I got settled. Closing the door, I went to the bed and sprawled out. Ahhhhhh!!! My own sanctuary!!! I quickly got settled, and went to the front desk to take care of the paper work... India style of course. They practically want every detail of your life. The basics: Name, Address, Phone, Passport #, Visa #. And then of course all of the other really important information a hotel needs like: your profession, your income, how long you plan to stay in India, which airline you're flying out on... oh, and the one you flew in on, when you first arrived in India, and the list goes on! Ha!
I was hungry, and Muthos offered to walk me into town to get something to eat. So friendly! He dropped me off at a restaurant called "Hot Kitchen." It had families of westerners and Indians, so I guessed it must be good. It was incredible!!!... though you wouldn't have guessed by the drab ambiance (or rather the lack thereof). I ordered Paneer Masala (Paneer is a solid cheese, kind of like feta, and masala means spice). Well if there isn't one thing India does absolutely brilliantly, it's SPICE (in this case, I mean flavor!). OMG!!! It was like a party complete with fireworks in my mouth! Curry, cumin, cardomon, clove, saffron, cinnamon... you name it... it was reavealing itself to me second by second. Delicious! I finished the best Indian dish I had yet, and slowly made my way back to the hotel. Muthos was there waiting for me to make sure that I made it home safely. So nice!
The next morning, Muthos greeted me ready to help facilitate whatever plans I hoped to accomplish for the day. I decided to simply take myself into town for a look at all the shops. Fabric stores with the finest silks and saris (long stretches of fabric that the Indian women wrap and pleat around them in flowing, drapery). Spices in the street stalls. Jewlery, jewlery, jewlery! I decided to duck into a fabric store and check out a sari for myself. The young girl sheepishly greeted me, and I asked her to wrap me up in Indian attire. She chose a red Sari with gold embroidery, and began running around me with yards and yards of fabric, until she had me mummified in the gorgeous traditional dress. As sweat poured down my back, I decided that however elegant and proper it is to wear this dress, its much too hot for me to endure. I unravelled myself out of the sari, and asked to see the different fabrics with which I could have a personally tailored tunic and pants. I picked out a marron/magenta light silk and purchased it.
Next stop... the tailor. I walked and walked until I came to a small little hole-in-the-wall stall of women sitting behind sewing machines. They, too, greeted me with shy, but warm, smiles. I explained what I wanted, and one of the women told me to come back at 10am to pick up my new outfit.
When I returned to the hotel, Muthos was, of course there, greeting me with his winning smile. I asked him about some of the trees in the garden, and he decided it was his turn to teach the "teacher," and gave me a tour of the tropical fruit garden in the yard: Mango, Jack Fruit, Papaya, Coconut, these weird spikey looking cucumbers, okra, peppers, passion fruit, and vanilla beans!!!
I asked Muthos about canoe rides into the backwaters, and he quickly told me that he would call his friend to pick me up whenever I wanted. I arranged a boat ride for sunset. Just before his friend arrived, I decided to invite the neighbors from the other 2 rooms if they'd like to join me. It would bring the price down... and its always much nicer to share an experience like that with others... and its safer too! To my surprise, a mother and daughter from Australia, decided to join me. Stephanie was a year older than me.
Muthos' friend arrived... an old man, with the leathery wrinkles depicting years of honest hard work worn on his face. We boarded the tipsy vessel, and he set off at a slow row with a 15 ft. staff of bamboo to push us along. Venturing out into the canal, we saw lots of birds: White snowy egrets, kormerants, kingfishers, and others I can't name. Just being out on the water and away from the noise pollution of town calmed my entire being. Stephanie, her mother, and I got acquainted as we floated along the waterways. The old man pointing out the major attractions along the way: huge houseboats, the stadium of the annual boat races, etc.
We slowly made our way across the waters and came to a stop along a shore with two small houses. The women and I exchanged glances, and our tour guide motioned for us to get off the boat. A bit confused, but trusting whole-heartedly, we did so. He had take us to his own home! His daughter came out to greet us, and he handed her the day's groceries. He led us to some chairs, and told his daughter to make us some chai. He disappeared into the house for a moment and returned a proud grandfather with his 2-week old grandson in his arms to show us. Soon is wife, other daughter and 1 yr. old granddaughter appeared... and we were all introduced. We all had a nice milky cup of chai masala, taking pictures of the beautiful family... and then it was time to head back... just in time for sunset.
The canoe ride was definitely worth stopping in Alleppey before heading to Cochin where I planned to meet 2 new friends from Amma's Ashram. And Alleppey was an incredible first experience on my own in India! Though... so far, I'm learning that one is never truly alone.
The young man, Muthos (about 22), asked me to come and register at the front desk after I got settled. Closing the door, I went to the bed and sprawled out. Ahhhhhh!!! My own sanctuary!!! I quickly got settled, and went to the front desk to take care of the paper work... India style of course. They practically want every detail of your life. The basics: Name, Address, Phone, Passport #, Visa #. And then of course all of the other really important information a hotel needs like: your profession, your income, how long you plan to stay in India, which airline you're flying out on... oh, and the one you flew in on, when you first arrived in India, and the list goes on! Ha!
I was hungry, and Muthos offered to walk me into town to get something to eat. So friendly! He dropped me off at a restaurant called "Hot Kitchen." It had families of westerners and Indians, so I guessed it must be good. It was incredible!!!... though you wouldn't have guessed by the drab ambiance (or rather the lack thereof). I ordered Paneer Masala (Paneer is a solid cheese, kind of like feta, and masala means spice). Well if there isn't one thing India does absolutely brilliantly, it's SPICE (in this case, I mean flavor!). OMG!!! It was like a party complete with fireworks in my mouth! Curry, cumin, cardomon, clove, saffron, cinnamon... you name it... it was reavealing itself to me second by second. Delicious! I finished the best Indian dish I had yet, and slowly made my way back to the hotel. Muthos was there waiting for me to make sure that I made it home safely. So nice!
The next morning, Muthos greeted me ready to help facilitate whatever plans I hoped to accomplish for the day. I decided to simply take myself into town for a look at all the shops. Fabric stores with the finest silks and saris (long stretches of fabric that the Indian women wrap and pleat around them in flowing, drapery). Spices in the street stalls. Jewlery, jewlery, jewlery! I decided to duck into a fabric store and check out a sari for myself. The young girl sheepishly greeted me, and I asked her to wrap me up in Indian attire. She chose a red Sari with gold embroidery, and began running around me with yards and yards of fabric, until she had me mummified in the gorgeous traditional dress. As sweat poured down my back, I decided that however elegant and proper it is to wear this dress, its much too hot for me to endure. I unravelled myself out of the sari, and asked to see the different fabrics with which I could have a personally tailored tunic and pants. I picked out a marron/magenta light silk and purchased it.
Next stop... the tailor. I walked and walked until I came to a small little hole-in-the-wall stall of women sitting behind sewing machines. They, too, greeted me with shy, but warm, smiles. I explained what I wanted, and one of the women told me to come back at 10am to pick up my new outfit.
When I returned to the hotel, Muthos was, of course there, greeting me with his winning smile. I asked him about some of the trees in the garden, and he decided it was his turn to teach the "teacher," and gave me a tour of the tropical fruit garden in the yard: Mango, Jack Fruit, Papaya, Coconut, these weird spikey looking cucumbers, okra, peppers, passion fruit, and vanilla beans!!!
I asked Muthos about canoe rides into the backwaters, and he quickly told me that he would call his friend to pick me up whenever I wanted. I arranged a boat ride for sunset. Just before his friend arrived, I decided to invite the neighbors from the other 2 rooms if they'd like to join me. It would bring the price down... and its always much nicer to share an experience like that with others... and its safer too! To my surprise, a mother and daughter from Australia, decided to join me. Stephanie was a year older than me.
Muthos' friend arrived... an old man, with the leathery wrinkles depicting years of honest hard work worn on his face. We boarded the tipsy vessel, and he set off at a slow row with a 15 ft. staff of bamboo to push us along. Venturing out into the canal, we saw lots of birds: White snowy egrets, kormerants, kingfishers, and others I can't name. Just being out on the water and away from the noise pollution of town calmed my entire being. Stephanie, her mother, and I got acquainted as we floated along the waterways. The old man pointing out the major attractions along the way: huge houseboats, the stadium of the annual boat races, etc.
We slowly made our way across the waters and came to a stop along a shore with two small houses. The women and I exchanged glances, and our tour guide motioned for us to get off the boat. A bit confused, but trusting whole-heartedly, we did so. He had take us to his own home! His daughter came out to greet us, and he handed her the day's groceries. He led us to some chairs, and told his daughter to make us some chai. He disappeared into the house for a moment and returned a proud grandfather with his 2-week old grandson in his arms to show us. Soon is wife, other daughter and 1 yr. old granddaughter appeared... and we were all introduced. We all had a nice milky cup of chai masala, taking pictures of the beautiful family... and then it was time to head back... just in time for sunset.
The canoe ride was definitely worth stopping in Alleppey before heading to Cochin where I planned to meet 2 new friends from Amma's Ashram. And Alleppey was an incredible first experience on my own in India! Though... so far, I'm learning that one is never truly alone.
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